Cambodia News! 
 

Bangkok 7 nov

Vi gick upp tidigt (05.00). Bada var ganska trotta efter gardagen, samt bara 3 och en halv timmas somn.Gick ut for att vanta pa minibussen, som skulle ta oss till gransen Thailand/Cambodia, men det kom ingen. Av ren tur fragade jag en kille 100 m ne d pa gatan var ifran den skulle avga. Och det visade sig att det var ej pa Khosan Road utan pa den stora paradgatan nagot kvarter darifran. Vi kom dock inte langre an till bussterminalen dar vi fick kliva av och fick byta till en ord. buss. Vilken vi kunnat kopa biljett till sjalva och den gick ej fram till gransen utan stannade nagra mil fore! Sa vi blev blasta pa 250 baht. Vi blev ganska irriterade pa resebyran sa det kandes skont att lamna detta land med dess otrevliga samt ohjalpsamma folk. 

Gransovergangen till Cambodia vid Poipet var en anda lervalling. Gransvakterna forsokte tydligen tjana xtra kosing och begarde kolera vacc. bevis, om man inte hade det = $ 5 for att ta en tablett som bara var ett sockerpiller! 

Jag hade mitt med mig, men inte Lina. Vi hade dock hittat en "pickupkille" som skulle ta oss till Siem Reap och han "pratade" med vakterna och sedan var saken biff! 

Vi fick betala $15 for att aka inne i kupen (152 km). fyra i baksatet (det ar inget riktigt baksate i en pickis endast en smal brits)samt tre prs fram. Vagen var ler valling med gropar i men foraren korde pa bra det tog bara 2 h till Sissophon. dar fick vi byta pickup. Vi bada hamnade fram, skont for bada mina ben hade hunnit borja krampa av sitta ihopklamd dar bak. nu blev vagen samre och efter en och en halv timmes korning gick nagot pa bakaxeln sonder. Sa vi stannde i en by mitt ute i ingenstans i 2 h passade pa att ata. de lyckades laga det trasiga och vi fortsatte ut i den kolsvarta natten. Vi fick reda pa att nu skulle vagen bli annu samre, vi trodde inte det var mojligt, men vi skulle snart inse det. Vi fastnade forst en gang i lera men da rackte det med att de 10-15 personerna pa flaket puttade pa. Gangen darpa fatnade vi en mindre sjo och vi kande hur vattnet borjade sippra in om fotterna, det steg snabbt och pa 30 sek. hade vi vatten upp over sateskanten, sa nu var vi blota. Sen fick alla ga ut och skjuta pa det tog ettag men lyckades.

Efter en timmes korning var det dags igen, men nu var det 0.5- 1 m djup lervalling. Hurra vad kul, jag fick ga ut och skjuta pa, lera till laren. Vi holl pa i 2 h fick palla upp bakhjulet med stenar med hjalp av domkraft. Vagen fortsatte att vara i detta skick och en kille pa flaket skickades ut for att kolla djuo och fasthet i alla kommande sjoar. Han hade lera anda till ansiktet!!! 

Framfor oss var det massvis med langtrade som fastnat samt hade knackt hjulaxel. Var hastighet lag kanske pa 1 km/h ibland. det blev fler stop pga rep samt fastkorda, men vi var trotta och sommnade mitt i allt skumpande. Under den sista rep. av vanster bakaxel la vi oss pa vagen och tittade pa stjarnorna. Sedan kom vi antligen fram 04.00 pa morgonen (13 h fran gransen samt 21h fran bangkok). vi blev avslppta vid ett guesthouse tog ett rum men dushade av leran forst. 

Siem Reap 

Sov till 11.00. 

Vi tog oss en titt pa staden som visade sig vara en mysig stad vid floden (kommer ej ihag namnet)med mycket franskkolonialbebyggelse kvar. Vi bytte till ett sadant guesthouse vid floden med en jattelik veranda runt om.Om man akte till Angkor for att kopa biljett (till morgondagen)efter kl. 17.00 fick man ga in gratis for att se solnedgangen. Vi kopte ett 3-dagars pass (vilket vi inte angrar!!!), man kunde valja pa 1 dag , 3 dag eller vecka. Det var ganska manga forsljare utanfor Angkor Vat mestadels urgulliga sma barn som forsokte salja armband, ringar etc... borjade alltid med "Mr/madame only 1 dolla" Vi kopte inte da men nasta ...Vi hyrde oss en mc med forare (eftersom de sa att det var forbjudet for oss att kora sjalva). Det blev frukost utanfor Bayon vi fortsatte sedan runt pa omradet. Pa eftermiddagen kom vi till Ta Phrom, ett tempel som man latit djungel behalla grepet om. Stora enorma trad vaxer sig genom murar och tak och dess gigantiska rotter slingrar sig runt. riktigt haftigt, mycket hade rasat ihop (1000 ar gammalt)sa vi kunde klattra pa stenblocken och komma upp pa taken (det som fanns kvar)ochpa sa satt se det hela uppifran. vi klattrade sedan ned och in det aterstaende bygganden som var som en labyrint, vi gick nastan vilse. man kande sig lite som indian Jones pa aventyr ute i djungeln. 

Den mest kanda och storsta av dessa historiska monument ar Angkor Wat vilken ar gigantisk och i otroligt bra skick (900 ar). Men det var inte den som imponerade mest pa oss utan det var nyss namnda Ta Phrom samt Prah Khan som var helt fantastisk. Vi var helt ensamna i Prah Khan inga andra turister det var bara djungelns laten. Allt var klatt i mossa och gronska samt aven har jattelika trad som "sprangt sonder byggnaderna" Det kandes som att man kunde stanna i evigheter vi stannde i 3 timmar. Det ar svart att i ord beskriva den kansla och atmosfar detta stalle gav oss. 

Den tredje dagen hyrde vi egen Mc och akte till det tempel, Bantey srei som ligger langst bort,25 km fran angkor. Den roda lervagen dit gick over knallgrona ris falt och byar valdigt vackert, men vi borjade lite val advance kanske, lera ar ganska halt men vi lyckades bra for att vara nyborjare. Forutom att vi blev leriga var det jatte kul att kora tyckte vi bada. Vi fdick sadan mersmak av mckorningen att vi bestammde att det har maste vi gora om! (och det har vi gjort oxa). 

Vi forsokte lamna Siem Reap med militarhelicopter, men just de tva dagarna vi ville aka hade inte militaren nagot arende dit. Typiskt, fick bli pickis igen. Startade 08.00 pa morgonen en timme forsenade, och efter 40 min stannadevi foraren skulle ata frukost. resan skulle ta 5h da hade vi enbart kommit 1/3! Det blev lunch och tut lagning for var forare var valdigt fralst i sin tuta!!! Anvandes pa allt och inget. Eftre nagra timmar horde vi hur det borjade pysa fran hoger bakdel av bilen, punka! Det fanns som tur var reservhjul. Sa vi kunde aka vidare efter ett tag, men nar vi tordde att vi var framme skulle pickisen tvattas och en kvart senare blev omkorda av vart eget reservhjul som rullade over i motande korban och ned i en vattenfylldaker/karr. Men en kille pa flaket hittade dacket och jag & Lina letade bultar och hittade 4 av 6. sedan nar det hunnit blivit morkt kom vi sa fram till Phnom Penh, dar tog vi en moto(mctaxi) till ett guesthouse. P.P var en ganska stor stad vi bytte guesthouse till ett vid sjon. Vi besokte deras markander riktigt imponernade utbud av grejer och saker. De hade ericsson T28 och mat affaren Wasa knackebrod, lite cool tyckte vi. Samt billiga MD spelare och andra el prylar. Dag tva besokte vi "the killing fields" och S21 (gammal gymasieskola omgjord till tortyrcenter under Roda Khemer tiden). Killingfields var ett omrade utanfor staden dar regimen avrattade utbildade, studenter, larare mfl. av totalt 129 massgravar ar 43 uppgravada 8985 kroppar hittades och deras huvuden ar nu placerde i en 8 m hog glasstupa. Nar vi gick runt pa omradet stack det upp benknoter och klader. 

Men det var inte forran vi kom till S21 som jag fick insikt i vad som hant verkligen hant dar sag vi cellerna, tortyrredskapen, fotografierna (pa de avrattade) samt malningar. Det var fruktansvart att se: spadbarn som blev uppslangda i luften (som lerduvor)for att sedan bli traffade av en kul svarm. Jag kunde inte halla tillbaka tararna, ung. 2 MILJONER CAMBODIANER BLEV AVRATTADE, DOG AV SVALT ELLER SJUKDOM under Pol Pot regimen(revolutionen). 

Dagen efter sag vi den am. dramatiseringen 'The killing fields" som bygger pa historisk fakta och da fick vi en annu battre bild av de avskyvarda som hant. Hyr den pa video! 

Vi pratade me personalen pa varat guesthouse om en helicopter tur och det skulle ga bra. Sa nasta morgon akte vi in pa en flyg bas utanfor P.P och klev strax dar efter in i en sovjetbyggd gammal militarhelikopter. Vi lyfte med oppna fonster och inga akerhetsbalten. Den var inte direkt i topp skick. Vi akte till Battambang nordvast om P.P vi strosade runt i staden, at lite lunch och tog sedan helicoptern tillbaka. En av miltarerna pa tillbakavagen var en gamal rod khemer det kanns hemskt att veta att det det gar runt en massa gamla mordare i samhallet de borde ju b;ivit Lite storda av att doda sa monga. 
Vi stormtrevs i detta land, ett mer vaenligt och odmjukt folk gar nag inte att hitta och mangder av otroligt gulliga barn som alla vill kommma fram och halsa. de ar aven battre pa engelska har jmf med Thailand. Sa vi bestammde oss for att stanna langre an planerat (8 dagar blev 18dagar) Vi tog en buss ned mot sydkusten, Sihanoukville. Som vanligt nar det galler kommunikationer har vi otur, bussen fick punka 3ggr! 

vi tog in pa ett guesthouse ung 100 meter fran den vita sandstranden, Orchetal beach med dess turkosa vatten. urharligt vi njot, forsta morgonen blev det lite motion forst springa langs stranden och sedan simma tillbaka. efter det toppen frukost som vanligt. Vi tog och gick en lang promenad for att kolla in de andra stranderna , mne det visade sig att vi bodde vi den finaste. det blev nga dagar sollapande och slapnade innan vi hyrde en av mc killarnas hojar. 

Vid kvartover sex rullade vi ut ur staden efter att ah tankat och vaxlat pengar, efter en timme blev ndet frukost pa ett ris falt. Vagarna var som vi varvan vid leriga,haliga osv. 

Nagra timmar senare sag vi en avtagsvag till vanster( inga skyltar). vi antog att den skulle ga upp till Boker Hill Station (och det gjorde den!). Vi betalde $2 var for att for att aka upp, det tog tva timmar att ta sig upp pa de slingriga stenvagarna. Sista halvtimmen lyste bensinmataren empty, och vi visste inte hur langt vi akt eller langt det var kvar (bade trip och hastighetsmatare var urkopplade). 
Vi kom upp utan att fa soppa torsk och borjade ragga bransler bland bilburna cambodianer men det var ingen som hade eztra tank. en vakt erbjod oss bensin for $ 20 + bensin kostnad vi lyckades pruta ned det till $ 5 + bensinkostnad. 
 

Pa plataen vantade ett spokhotell fran 60 talet med en magnifik vy over djungeln och havet. Vi at middag pa dess gamla balkong. Hotellet overgas under polpot itden da det anvandes som fastning. Det ar sand sackar vid ingangen och pa balkongerna som ghar anvants som skyttevarn. Efter nagra timmar vande vi nedat och det var nu min tur att kora ner var varre en uppot, stora makadamstenar som vi slirade pa vi var nar kanten en gang... 

Nu stanger mailstallet sa vi maste sluta har vi tar nattaget till Malaysia nu (har varit nag dagra pa koh Pha Ngan ( klart overreklamerad) aker till Myanmar istallet! 

/R & L 

In English

Cambodia News!

Bangkok, Nov. 7

We went up early (5 o'clock). Both of us pretty sleepy after only 3,5 hours of sleep. Went out to wait for the bus to take us to the boarder of Thailand/Cambodia but it did not arrive. By chance I asked a bloke down the street for where the bus was supposed to leave. It wasn't at Khosan Road but down at the big parade street a couple of block from there. On the bus we didn't get longer than to the bus terminal where we had to change to a regular bus. We could've bought the tickets ourselves, and that bus stopped miles from the boarder! We were blown on 250 baht! We were rather upset with the travel agency and were happy to leave this country with its unpleasant and unhelpful people. The checkpoint at Poipet was just mud. The guards wanted to earn some extra: demanded vaccination against cholera and when you couldn't prove we had it we had to buy a $ 5 tablet that was only a sugar pill!!

I had my proof, but Lina didn't. But we found a "pickup truck driver" that was going to take us to Siem Reap and he "spoke" to the guards and we got through.

We paid $ 15 to sit inside the truck for 152 kilometers. There were four in the back and three in the front seat. The road was all mud with holes in it but the driver did it good and it took not more than 2 hrs to Sissophon, where we had to change truck. The two of us got into the front seat, nice because my legs had begun to cramp. The road got worse. After one and a half hour the rear axis broke! So we stopped in a village, out in the middle of nowhere for two hours and had something to eat. They managed to fix the axis and we went on in the black night. We got to know that the road was going to become even worse, we didn't believe it, but we did after a short while. first we got stuck in the mud once, but it was enough that the 10-15 people on the cargo thing at back jumped of and pushed. Next time we were stuck in the middle of a small lake an we felt the water pouring in onto our feet, it went on fast and after 30 secs we had water up the seat, so we were wet. Everybody had to get of and push. 

After one more hour we were stuck again. This time it was 0.5-1 meter deep mud. Wonderful! I had to get out and push, I had mud to my thighs. For two hours we worked on jacking up the rear wheels on rocks. The road continued to be in this miserable state and a guy had to go out and check the status of all coming lakes. He was muddy to his face!

In front of us there were lots of trucks that were stuck or had a broken axis. Our speed was maybe 1km/hr. There were several stops because of deep mud and repairs, but we was tired and fell asleep in the middle of all the bumping. During the last of all fixing of the axis we lay down on the road an looked at the stars. Finally at four o'clock in the morning we arrived, rented a room at a guest house and had a shower.

Siem Reap

Slept till eleven.

Took a look at the town (don't remember the name) with much of the French colonial buildings left. Moved to a guest house in a "French" building that had a huge verandah around. If you went to Angkor for a ticket after five o'clock (for the day after) you could enter for free to see the sunset. We bought a three-day pass, which we do not regret! There where quite many sellers outside Angkor Vat, mostly cute children trying to sell rings and bracelets and stuff . . always starting with "Mr/madame only 1 dolla" . . .
We rent a motorbike, included a driver (as they told us it was forbidden to drive by yourself). In the afternoon we got to Ta Phrom a temple where they'd let the jungle thrive. Enormous trees grows through walls and roofs and their gigantic roots winding around. Cool, much of it had fallen in (1000 yrs old) so we could climb up the rock to get to the roofs (what was left) and look at the area from above. We climbed into the remaining building, which was like a maze, we nearly were lost. We felt like Indiana Jones in the jungle.

The biggest of all monuments is Angkor Vat, vast and very well preserved (900 yrs). Wasn't as imposing, instead it was Ta Phrom and Pra Khan that was fantastic. In Pra Khan we were alone, with the sound of the jungle. Everything covered in moss, giant trees "crushing the constructions". Felt like we wanted to stay for ever. We stayed for 13 hours. 
The third day we rent our own motorbike and went to the temple (Bantey Srei) which is most far away from Angkor. The red mud road passed chocking-green rice field an villages, very beautiful, but we began a little bit too advanced maybe, mud is pretty slippery but we managed well to be beginners on MC. Except for getting muddy it was great fun! 

We tried to leave from Siem Reap by military helicopter, but exactly the two days we wanted to leave, the military didn't have any business there. Typically we had to go by pickup truck again! Started at 8 in the morning, stopping after 40 minutes for the drivers breakfast. Lunch and repair of the horn because our driver was fond of honking. Used it for all and nothing! After some hours we heard a hissing from the right rear wheel. Puncture! Luckily there was a spare wheel. We went on and when we thought that we were near our goal the truck had to be washed and 15 minutes later we were overdriven by our own rear wheel, rolling down into a marsh. A guy from the cargo thing at back found the wheel and Lina and I searched for the screws and found 4 out of 6! Later, in the dark, in Phnom Penh, we took a MC-taxi to a guest house. P.P. a big town. We visited their market with an imposing amount of gadgets. We found Ericsson T28, and Swedish crisp bread, cool. Day number two we visited the "Killing fields" and S21 (a high school rebuilt into a torture center). Of 129 mass graves 43 are dug up and 8985 bodies are found and their skulls are placed in an 8 meter high glass container. Where we walked around bones and clothes came up from the ground.

Not until S21 I realized that what had happened really had happened. Saw the cells, the torture tools, the photos, paintings. Awful to see: infants thrown up in the air like clay pigeons to be hit by a swarm of bullets. I couldn't stop my tears bursting. About 2 MILLION CAMBODIANS WERE EXCECUTED, DIED FROM FATIGUE OR DECEASE during the Pol Pot regime.

The day after we saw the movie film "The killing fields". You must see it on video!

Next day we went to a military air base and went into an old soviet built chopper. We took off with open windows and no safety straps. (Not really in top condition.) Went to Battambong, strolled around for a while and chopped back. One of the militaries in the helicopter was a former "red khmer" and it is an awful feeling to know that a bunch of murderers are loose on the streets. They must have become crazy by killing so many people.
We enjoyed this country a lot, a more humble and friendly people is hard to find on earth and bunches of cute kids that all wanted to say hello. Compared to the Thais they are better at English. We decided to stay longer than planned, 18 instead of 8 days. Took a bus to Sihanoukville, stayed at a guest house 100 yards from the white sandy Orchetal beach whit its turquoise colored water. We enjoyed, first morning a little jogging along the beach and a swim back, after that a super breakfast, as usual. Had a couple of tanning and relaxed before we rent a motorbike.

Left town at 6, breakfast on a rice field at 7, slippery roads, etc.

Some hours later a road to the left (no signs). We supposed it would lead to Boker Hill Station. Paid two dollars each to enter the road, took two hours to get up on the serpentine roads. last half of an hour the gas meter showed empty, we didn't know how far we'd come or how far it was left (speedometer was disconnected).

After arriving we started to buy gas from Cambodian drivers but none had a spare container. A guard offered us gas for regular price plus $ 20, but we managed to bargain down to plus $ 5.

On top of the mountain there was a ghost hotel, built in the sixties with a magnificent view of the jungle and the sea. We had dinner on the balcony. The building was used as a fort during Pol Pot and there are still sand bags around the entrance and on the balcony. After a couple of hours we went down and this time it was me driving, was worse than going up, big pebbles to slide on and once we were near the edge. . .

Now this e-mail place is closing so we have to quit. We are taking the night train to Malaysia (been a few days on Koh Pha Ngan, over rated) going to Myanmar instead!

/R&L