December 1997 - January 1998

	Laos is a mountainous and sparsely populated country in South-East Asia. As a tourist destination the country has kept a low profile and until recently it has been very difficult to obtain permission for individual travel outside Vientiane, the capital. Permission to visit other areas were largely reserved for package tourism. In 1994 these restrictions were lifted and it is now quite easy to obtain a tourist visa. In January 1998 visitors were still required to obtain a stamp on a slip of paper whenever entering or leaving a province in the north of the country, but in the south this system seemed to have been abolished recently. In addition to the restrictions imposed by the government, the number of visitors has been kept low by the relative lack of major tourist attractions (such as ocean beaches) coupled with a poor infrastructure and perhaps a lingering reputation from the days of civil and international war in the region. The best way to travel in Laos is by river boat. For example you might enter the country at Huay Xai on the Mekong river near the Golden Triangle, just across from Chiang Khong on the Thai side. From Huay Xai you could take a slowboat down the Mekong to Luang Prabang in two days with an overnight stay at Pakbeng. Avoid the noisy speedboats unless you're pressed for time.
	Another option is to take an eastbound pick-up truck from Huay Xai. Most likely, you'll stop over at Muang Xai which is where I saw these chairs. The fumes are from an idling motorcycle in the background.
	From Muang Xai there are pick-ups in different directions. If you continue east towards Nambak you can make the connection to Nong Khiaw on the Nam Ou river. The driver may stop to pick up a dead rodent on occasion...
	If you're lucky you'll be able to catch a boat from Nong Khiaw up or down the Nam Ou river. Don't be surprised if you see a swimmer who keeps his hat on in the blazing sunshine, though I think this man kept his on mainly to amuse the children on the shore.
	If you travel downriver from Nong Khiaw you'll pass this rock a short distance before you get to the confluence of the Nam Ou and Mekong rivers, and...
	...if you arrive before dark you could make a quick stop at the Pak Ou caves before pushing on to Luang Prabang another hour down the Mekong.
	Slowboats often seem to reach Luang Prabang around sunset. The city was added to UNESCO's World Heritage List in 1995 and is both colourful and pleasant.
	Luang Prabang has many temples and monks in colourful robes, and the view from Phu Si hill is worth the climb.

	If you arrive in Vang Vieng (on the highway between Luang Prabang and Vientiane) after dark, you should go down to the river and listen for a while. You'll probably hear voices from the middle of the river and perhaps you'll see a vehicle or two head straight for the water. Come back in the morning and walk across if the river isn't too high.
	The Pha That Luang stupa is an important national monument that you could visit in Vientiane or study on paper money...
	Tuk-tuk taxis are common in the capital and so are unsealed streets.

	The widest section of the Mekong river is in the south of Laos, on the Cambodian/Kampuchean border. The French once built a narrow gage railway across Don Khon island to bypass the rapids. The tracks are long gone but you can follow the old railbed across the island and if you are lucky you may be able to spot an Irrawaddy dolphin in the river (chances improve if you hire a boat).
	Don Khong--not to be cunfused with Don Khon--is a large island with several guest houses and a regular ferry to the mainland. It can be reached by road from the city of Pakse. There are also boats when the river is high enough.